Aquascutum (Aquascutum RTW Fall 2009)
Outerwear stole the show in this luscious collection. Trench coats came adorned with fur or lace collars and coats boasted the richest of details, including contrasting lining, crocheted pockets and hoods, and even embroidery. This was Michael Herz's first solo effort at the label after his design partner Graeme Fidler left to dedicate himself to Aquascutum's men's wear. And he hasn't missed a beat. In this new age of discreet consumption, Herz turned out a collection that was utterly luxe, but didn't scream it.
Outerwear stole the show in this luscious collection. Trench coats came adorned with fur or lace collars and coats boasted the richest of details, including contrasting lining, crocheted pockets and hoods, and even embroidery. This was Michael Herz's first solo effort at the label after his design partner Graeme Fidler left to dedicate himself to Aquascutum's men's wear. And he hasn't missed a beat. In this new age of discreet consumption, Herz turned out a collection that was utterly luxe, but didn't scream it.
Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto relied more upon bright colors - and details like contrasting piping, patch pockets and shiny buttons than on their signature prints. A-line dresses and boxy suits came in periwinkle, blood orange, hot pink and violet. The most interesting prints were big and bold - oversized quotation marks or paisley swirls and they spilled over fluid silk dresses and blouses.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label(Vivienne Westwood Red Label RTW Fall 2009)
Naughty boarding school girls – and wicked headmistresses – were Westwood’s inspiration for a very commercial collection. Collegiate navy and oxblood stripes found their way onto blazers, dresses and capes, and oversized chunky knits were big enough to hide a multitude of cigarettes and alcoholic beverages. Saucy tartan dresses and short, swingy skirts flirted with dress code violations.
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